Capone, the Birdman of Alcatraz, and Machine Gun Kelly. Despite its history as a military outpost and jail, "The Rock" is beautiful in its eerie island setting. Stuck between San Francisco to the south and Angel Island and Tiburon to the north, it's caught in the frigid Pacific wind gusts that beat the dilapidated remnants of the once impenetrable fortress. On a trip to San Francisco, one can't miss The Rock which is visible from many spots around the bay. Even on the foggiest days which are typical in the area, the lighthouse provides a beacon for ships and people alike. It's hard to imagine the island without the jail, though in 1775 a Spaniard "discovered" the rocky land (I say "discovered" because there were plenty of Native Americans who lived in this area prior to the Spanish "discovery"). Juan Manuel de Ayala named the island "La Isla de los Alcatraces" which translates into "The Island of the Pelicans." Following the US acquisition of California after the Mexican-American war, President Fillmore set the island aside for military purposes in 1850.
During the civil war, the island was used as a defensive outpost filled with artillery and imprisoned Confederate sympathizers. Post war, it was used to protect the Bay Area and its interests. By 1867 the first jailhouse was built on the island for use as a military detention facility. After numerous renovations and expansions, the island was designated as a federal penitentiary on August 9, 1934.
Though the island was only used as a federal jail for 29 years, there were 14 escape attempts and one battle between inmates and guards that left five dead. Evidence of the escapes and violent fights are still visible in the structure today. (If you haven't seen the Clint Eastwood movie, Escape from Alcatraz, I highly recommend it.)
After a century of salt-water erosion and expensive upkeep, Robert Kennedy closed Alcatraz for use as a federal penitentiary. From 1969 to 1971, a group of Native Americans occupied the island demanding justice for their treatment as a people and for payment for the land which was taken from them over the centuries. Although their occupation here led to the further damage and deterioration of the remaining buildings, as a group their efforts raised awareness to their plight and helped usher in an era of change.
Today marks the 75th anniversary of the opening of Alcatraz as a federal jail. Former inmates, prison guards and their families are reuniting on the island to share their stories with visitors.
Although I wish I could be there today, I was lucky enough to visit the island twice. Though its dark past mars its current beauty as nature reclaims the skeletons of its once foreboding structures, an unspoken charge of energy is undeniably present there. While you smell the salty sea air as the cold wind smacks your face, you can almost feel the desperation of the men sent here to suffer for their crimes. There's a story that on New Year's Eve, some of the windows would be left open around the cell blocks to taunt the prisoners who could hear merriment from the free city dwellers ringing in the new year. The Rock is a lonely, empty place surrounded by California's natural beauty which remained just out of reach for Alcatraz's inhabitants.
If you find yourself in San Francisco and you happen to like history as much as me, Alcatraz is a worthwhile trip filled with mystery, intrigue, and a few ghosts--not to mention beautiful photo opportunities around every corner. Check out a few of my shots below (forgive me, these were taken pre-digital camera).
Note: For those planning a trip to the Bay Area, tickets to Alcatraz are limited. It is recommended that you purchase your tickets in advance. Click here for more information or to buy tickets.
From left to right: Alcatraz dock with burnt out home in background; nature reclaiming Alcatraz; old cell; view of San Francisco from Alcatraz
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